You will also be reinstalling the set screw in the back of the housing about this time. I repaired mine with a strip of index card, and it is still working perfectly several years later. If it sticks in the cylinder, try a thinner shim. If it still doesn't seal in the cylinder, maybe try a thicker piece of card stock. The card stock then serves as a shim to bring the leather lip closer to the cylinder wall, effectively making up for the reduced thickness of the leather lip. The paper strip will then be securely trapped behind the leather lip, and will stay there indefinitely. Press the leather lip back into place against the piston. Gently pull the edge of the leather cup away from the piston, and insert the strip of card stock between the leather and the piston, tucking it nicely into the step in the piston. In this case you can cut a strip of thin paper card stock, slightly narrower than the length of the lip on the leather cup. Sometimes the working edge of the leather cup has compressed or worn thin such that it does not want to make a good seal with the housing, even with the silicone grease. It's all a matter of getting the leather cup soft and supple enough to seal well against the bore of the housing. If at first you don't succeed, be persistent. You must be able to achieve these results if you expect the unit to function properly after assembly. The piston should stay down as long as you keep the vent port covered, and should move up fair quickly when you open the port. Then place one finger over the center hole in the back of the housing to seal off the vacuum port, release the force on the piston, and see if it stays in place or moves back up the bore. Install the spring and the piston into the housing and press the piston fully down. Apply a liberal coating of the grease to the leather cup and to the inside of the housing. This silicone grease is a good preservative for the leather, a good sealing compound for the vacuum, and will not dry out for many years to come. It is important to remove any such caked on materials, as they can interfere with the operation of the seal.įor the final seal lubricant I like to use silicone grease, also known as dieletric heat sink grease or tune-up grease. At some time over the last 40 years or so someone may have applied a coating of grease of undefined type, and any or all of these materials may end up dry and caked on the internal parts. When the leather cup is dry it can be very brittle, so take great care when handling this part.ĭuring original manufacture the leather cup may have been installed without a lubricant, or it may have had a coating of Neatsfoot oil or other leather preservative. The object here is to clean the housing, and to clean and lubricate the leather cup to return it to its original soft and supple condition where it can relax and make intimate contact with the housing. When this leather cup dries out it can lose the seal against the bore of the housing, resulting in a fast return with little or no time delay regulation. On the back of the piston there is a leather cup held in place with a thin steel washer and a rivet. Now comes the fun part of making the time delay work again. MGA turn signal switch, Pg 5 of 6 The MGA With An Attitude
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